17 December 2014

1780's Embroidered Stays - Construction Part Six


The stays are done!

This post contains the last few steps I went through to finish them off, although there wasn't much to show.

The binding for the tabs was tedious, and not the neatest thing in the world. As I went on I got a little neater, but i'm still not happy with most of the binding.

Bias binding the tab 1
 
I decided the polyester satin I used was too shiny and cheap looking, but I didn't want to unpick everything i'd done so far. The width of the binding was just less than two inches, which was far too wide. It would have been easier to bind and looked neater with thinner bias binding.

Bias binding the tab 2

After the bottom binding was done, I added in the lacing holes. Before I could bind the top of the stays, I needed to know how long the arm straps were going to be, so I had to try it on. I decided to use metal eyelets for speed and strength, then covered them in thread to achieve a slightly more period look.

metal eyelets covered embroidery thread

I actually really like the look of covered eyelets compared to hand done eyelets, even if it is twice the work.

With great difficulty I laced myself into the stays (my usual helper was at work) and was relived to see that they still fit me. It had been five months since I tried on my mockup, and I didn't trust my body to have stayed exactly the same shape.

1780's stays fitting shoulder strap

Originally I had cut long, as I left lots of room 'just in case'. When I quickly tried the unfinished stays against my body a few months ago, I thought i'd made them way too long. When I actually laced them up properly and had a chance to fit them on a nearly completed garment, I was glad I left in all the length.

If i'd cut them down to the length on the original pattern they would have been far too short. With the straps measured I cut them, rounded the ends and trimmed down the width. The binding on the top was done, and the last few eyelets on the straps put in and covered.

1780's stays finished front

The big pink bows on the shoulder straps are just for show, i'll trim them down for when I actually wear these under a dress.

1780's stays finished back

1780's stays finished detail embroidery

Next week i'll be posting some pictures of me actually wearing them, but for now i'm just happy that I can move on to the rest of the outfit!

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