8 September 2014

1780's Embroidered Stays - Construction Part Four


I've had a crazy busy weekend, so i've barely had time to sew let alone post.

I've started binding the edges of the stays, so I do have a few pictures. First I had to put all the boning in. I already had eighty percent of the reed cut to the right length for the mockup, so I just needed to tidy it up.

Although I don't have any pictures, here are the steps I went through with the reed:

  1. Measure the boning channel and cut a piece of reed to the right length.
  2. To straighten the reed, iron it using lots of steam. I didn't think this would work, but it does, and it's an essential step. 
  3. Rub a candle or piece of wax over the reed. This will help it go into the channel better.
  4. Sand the ends of the reed so they're smooth.
  5. Insert the reed into the boning channel, hoping it fits.
1780's stays reed boning completed

As I pinned the lining on and started the binding, I had to pull some reeds out and trim them because they were too long. Then I just re-sanded the ends.

For the curved channels on the front of the corset, I didn't iron them. It really starts to feel like a set of stays with them in, the curved front magically appears.

After all the boning was done I pinned the lining to the inside.

1780's stays lining pinned

This required a lot of pulling and pinning, but I eventually got it lined up. There's still some ugly wrinkling that will hopefully get fixed as I bind the edges, but it's not going to be visible anyway.

Then comes the binding. This free article on Your Wardrobe Unlock'd is essential if you want decent binding. It's clear, concise and simply wonderful. I think i've made a good start, but it definitely needs pressing.

1780's stays binding started

Although it's too late for me, I also found this post about binding stays before you sew the panels together. It seems like a much near way of doing it...and just look at that beautiful set of stays.

For the next few weeks i'll be binding the edges, but I did buy some matching embroidery floss in anticipation for covering eyelets.

1780's stays eyelet embroidery floss